Tuesday, November 27, 2007

Order of multiple paint coats

I'm trying to get the smoothest finish possible - not necessarily the glossiest. In other words, I HATE orangepeel! After I apply a color coat, I'm not about the correct sequence of (a) clearcoat, (b) sand (c) colorcoat. IOW, once I cover the model with color, should I use any additional color coats? Or just multiple clearcoats with sanding in between? And if I use more color coats, should I sand EVERY coat? Or just the clears? Or just the colors? Many thanks for the trouble you take to answer our question! Tom


The best (smoothest) finish should be obtained by applying a good color coat first. After that has dried well you can Polish out any irregularities with fine grit sand paper (2000, 3200, something of that order.). If additional coats are needed you can apply them lightly afterwards. I would wait for clear coat until the finish is blemish free. If you are using gloss paint for the color coats make sure that the coats are thoroughly dry between coats. Sometimes that might take a day or two. A trick that a friend uses for his funny car models is to use finger nail polish as it dries very smooth.

I have managed to get fairly smooth finishes by polishing the surface prior to my first coat and building up the paint in light layers. I also sometimes use flat paints and a final gloss coat. That usually results in a smooth finish. There really is not a science to good paint finish, it is more of an art that each person develops on their own.


Thursday, November 15, 2007

How to get great effects custom painting plastic models

How to get great effects custom painting plastic models?

Two cheap way's to get very good results on model cars is to go to the cheap shops ($2 dollar ones) and check out the nail polish ..amazing colours huge range and at $2 dollars its cheap, looks great and holds its colour..also a product by "pentel pens" called "metallic brush" fantastic pen brushes ..self contained pump fed water based metallic paint in about 12 colours take covering with enamel clear top coat @$8.00 at good papershops /stationers and both of these items will last for a vast number of projects and will keep for years

Depending on What you are trying to do, you can use an Air Brush, Painting masks, and painting templates. IF you are a Military Modeler Dry brushing is what works the best for mud Streaks and splashes, Oil runs, Rust spots with runs down, exhaust streaks. The list of things that can be done is almost endless. The Best answer is Practice, lots of practice, and patience. :)


Wednesday, November 7, 2007

How to remove chrome parts from model car

In previous post I wrote How to remove chrome from plated parts and How to remove paint from your models.
Today we will talk about another method of removing chrome parts from car model!
Ever wonder why kit makers seem to chrome some of the strangest parts? Everything from distributors to oil pans make it into the plating bath. If you are building a trailer queen show car, great, but if you prefer to detail your kits with a more practical look, here's how to remove that pesky chrome in no time.

You should do some steps:

  1. Know that not all plating is created equally. Depending on the manufacturer, the stripping process can take a few minutes or a few hours, which is generally no sweat since you will be building that 426 Hemi while waiting for the valve covers to de-chrome
  2. Get an airtight container, such as a prescription bottle.
  3. Get the chemical for stripping the chrome. Easy-Off oven cleaner can work, but it does have a weird smell, so many prefer chlorine bleach, found in the laundry aisle of your local retailer. Get the cheap stuff, it has no added fragrances and seems to work better for this purpose.
  4. Pour enough bleach into the container to cover the parts. Usually about an inch or so will do the trick.
  5. Drop the parts into the bleach and place the lid on securely. Here's where the airtight part comes in. Since most plastic parts float in bleach, shake the container a little to insure tha parts are covered.
  6. Take a look after about an hour. If the chrome is hanging tough, replace the lid and wait another hour. If the parts are still shiny after that, leave them in the bleach overnight.
  7. Once the parts are dechromed, recover them using tweasers. Place them in a container of fresh water to soak. After 30 min. replace the water and allow them to soak another 30 min.
  8. Be sure and dump your container.
Helpful advices:
  • If you can get your hands on a small strainer or wire basket, it will help in the rinsing process. Just be careful when rinsing under the tap. Plugging the sink is a good idea, unless you really want to test your plumbing skills by trying to fish out a 1:25 scale carb from the J trap.
  • Use lukewarm water to rinse. It takes the bleach off faster than cold.
Warning! Be attentive:
  • Bleach is dangerous if handled improperly. Protect your eyes and skin.
  • Rinse all tools and containers after use with bleach and do not use soap of any kind when rinsing. This will cause the bleach to gas off and the results can be harmful.
  • Clearly label your stripping container and never leave it in the reach of children. Using a child resistant container (pill bottle) will help but "child resistant" isn't child proof, so be safe and put the container out of reach of children.
  • Again, protect your eyes, skin and clothing. Work around the sink to help contain possible spills.


Wednesday, October 24, 2007

Soviet tank crew at work 1/35 Miniart 35017 REVIEW

plBefore I have already made a review of new Miniart diorama Street with Ruined house Miniart 36001 and today we will make a review of Miniat Soviet Tank Crew at Work 35017

Advantages: nice, modern set of figures in casual poses "doing something" around any tank or vehicle
This kit is available at Plastic Models Store just check Soviet Tank Crew at work
Conclusion: Highly Recommended
Recommended: for all Soviet armor modellers and dioramists

For too many years, the wealth of facts, figures and attaches importance were produced too narrowly focused only on the Second World War, German subjects, the very frustrating for the rest of the arms and body. When the stray American, Russian or (heaven forbid!) Commonwealth set came out, Modeler would fall on them like a pack of hungry piranhas, no matter how good or bad it was.

By the way. we wait for opening web store of miniatr model. Plastic Models Store will opens in second part of 2008 year.
Happily many of the newer manufacturers have seen this and now the Chinese and Eastern European ones are filling the void, and with good, high quality figures too. Miniart has begun with a pretty good track record on figures, and now Soviet WWII modelers have been able to get some decent figures to compliment the growing number of WWII Soviet armored vehicles offered.

This set provides five Soviet tankers performing maintenance. Three of the figures are posed as it operating a bore brush for the main armament (which was usually carried in sections inside the longest of the stowage bins – "ZIP" in Russian for spares, tools and accessories – on the fenders of nearly all combat vehicles. One bareheaded figure is posing with a rag in hand and the commander is standing in a relaxed position with his hands set to drape over an open hatch.

The one thing that I have noticed about the new Miniart figures is that their facial sculpting yields to no one. The five heads in this set are the equal of many of the after-market resin ones offered and can be shown to have individual expressions and even ethnicity – one tanker hear looks to be a Tadzhik (central Asian) with a shaven head and it shows. The same goes for the other four.

Anyone with a good set of tank blueprints may want to have the man with the rag working on cleaning out the tank's air cleaners, which needed constant maintenance with a good cleaning by the crew every 3-4 hours (until 1951 when UVZ finally created a working design that solved that problem.)

Finishing is provided similar to DML boxing with an assembly diagram and color directions on the back of the box. Interior directions provide a handy sketch of where the parts for each figure are located on the sprue.

Overall, this is a great set and one that any diorama modeler would be able to find good use for with a T-34 or IS tank or other 1943 and later armored vehicle.


Monday, October 15, 2007

How to remove paint and chrome from a model.

How to remove chrome from plated parts? How to remove paint from your models?

The chrome plating on model parts is very fragile, and most hobby paints are not much tougher. There are hobby specific paint removers available at different hobby shops, Easy-Lift-Off made by Polly S has been recommended, but many household cleaners will also remove paint and/or chrome. Take a plastic container with a lid and soak or scrub the part or complete model in/with one of the following, listed in roughly increasing order of chemical nastiness:

Castrol Super Clean (hand cleaner ? - buy at auto stores),
Fantastic, Formula 409, Pinesol (not lemon scented),
Chlorine bleach (works good on chrome, maybe not paint),
using a toothbrush to scrub with Comet cleanser (for chrome, not paint),
EZ-Off oven cleaner,
common dot3 brake fluid (more toxic - not good to wash down the drain -but good for long dry paint).

By the way, you can try another method. You can very carefully reverse plate the chrome off, using an acid pickle. You should be able to remove the chrome layer down to the nickel underneath without harming the plastic.
It's unlikely that a bit of acid on the plastic will harm it anyway....after all the acid probably came in a plastic container, right?
You can also buff it off.

The time to soak varies with harshness of the chemical, from a few minutes to a some days. Chrome plating would just disappear, you will likely have to scrub the paint off with an old toothbrush, especially from the nooks and crannies. Many cleaners are reported to etch or
embrittle plastic, so keep the exposure brief and flush with water afterwards. A downside to the harsher, faster acting chemicals is that they tend to remove putty as well.

One thing you shouldn't to use is standard methyl-ethyl ketone based paint removers - this stuff will disolve styrene very quickly. Lemon scented Pinesol has also been reported to soften plastic.

Finally, the nastier of these cleaners - especially the EZ-Off and bleach - can cause burns to the skin, eyes and nose, and who knows what else. Use common sense and lots of ventilation (common sense includes wearing safety goggles, rubber gloves, and a respirator when using this sort of stuff).

I have already wrote about paint removal in my prevoius posts, so you can read this:


Thursday, October 11, 2007

Street w/Ruined House diorama review Miniart 36001

Hi again friends. As I promised before, today I will post the review of new model of Miniart from new "Diorama" line in 1/35 scale.

They have announced the release of 3 new diorama kits in September this year.

And now I want to show you the first model in new line - "Street w/Ruined House" Miniart 36001.
Today we will look in the box, check the molds and we will look a built photos of this kit.
So here we go.
BOX Dimentions: 345x240x60 mm
Number of plastic parts: 63
Inside the box we can see this molds:

There are 4 plastic parts of walls of ruined house and Stone blocks Road.

And now you can check built photos of this kit "Street w/Ruined House Miniart 36001".
Please, Enjoy!

Thanks, guys. Please, comment this post. Bye!


Wednesday, October 10, 2007

New Dioramas by Miniart.

Hello. Today I want you to present new kits of Miniart manufacturer. In September Miniart opened a new deparment of model kits. And this is a "Diorama" line. Now there are available only 3 kits but only 2 of them is in sale.

MiniArt is becoming a household name, partly due to the constant release of new products. They have announced the release of two new diorama kits in September this year.

Two new releases come from MiniArts new "Diorama" line. This line of kits states that each comes as a complete diorama.
They include everything you need ; you will find a base, a building, and building details in each of these kits. In past kits they have included propoganda posters too. The website does not picture these. This could have been an oversight, because the site does state that they are included.

The kits are:

36001 Street w/Ruined House


36002 Russian Street w/Advertising Column.
And the third item in "Diorama" category is


and this kit will coming soon.

The first and third kit is fairly generic and can be set in a number of locations while the second has strong Soviet architectural themes in it.
This 3 dioramas are available in Plastic Models Store for a good prices.
In next posts in this blog I will make a reviews of this three dioramas.
Thanks and good luck!


Tuesday, October 9, 2007

Painting Model Aircraft Interiors Part Two - Cockpits

Painting of your plastic models is so difficult for you?! Helpful video from youtube.com
Part 2.


Painting Model Aircraft Interiors Part One - Wheel Wells

Painting of your plastic models is so difficult for you?! Helpful video from youtube.com


Monday, October 8, 2007

Best method to remove old paint

What is a best method to remove the old paint without scoring or ruining the actual plastic?

The best way to do this is by using a paint thinner(not paint stripper). The best thing to do is to purchase the paint thinner at a hobby shop because then at least you'll be certain the paint thinner is designed for plastic model kits. Using this will in no way score or ruin the plastic, at least I've never known it to. Depending on how many layers of paint there is, you may need more than one application. Also, if the paint is very old and has been applied for quite some time, there may be some staining of the plastic meaning that there might be some discoloration of the plastic even after all the paint has been removed. To apply the paint thinner you can use cotton swabs(preferably), facial tissues or Q-Tips for small or hard to reach places.

And you can find the answers from related articles from another sites:
How to remove paint from plastic models

Thank you and best regards, see you soon.


How to repair your Models.

All of us break things, but for miniatures there are some special issues you need to think about before you proceed with a repair. First make sure you gather up all the pieces! Handle the pieces as little as possible to make sure oils from your hands do not compromise the repairs. If you have the tiny tools and magnification needed you may be able to do some repairs. If not, consult a local club for help.


Resin based miniatures are tricky to repair. Many household glues for resin will yellow and eventually damage the miniature. If the piece is not valuable you may be successful with crazy glue or epoxy. Use as little as possible and check with a museum before using either of these gluing methods on your particular miniature.

Styrene Plastic

Most plastic model kits are made from polystyrene. Breaks in this material can be mended with cyanoacrylate (crazy glue)or model cement which are the glues generally used by modellers to assemble these models. The type of glue (gap filling, fast drying etc.) should be matched to the type of repair needed. The piece may need to be gently supported with tissue paper or plastercine in order to allow the glue bond to set properly. Follow safe practises when using these glues, work only in well ventilated areas. (Acetone/nail polish remover will unstick fingers glued by crazy glue.)

Thank you.

(materials from www.about.com)


Thursday, October 4, 2007

Should You Choose Acrylic Paint?

Before You Paint - Should You Choose Acrylic Paint?
When choosing paint for a miniatures project you must consider a number of points.

  • Will the object be handled? If so, it should be painted with enamel/oil paint. Acrylic paint will need special sealers to allow repeated handling./li>
  • Is the object porous, does air get through? Acrylic paint works best where air passes freely through the object. On plastics or metals, acrylic paint will only survive if it is painted on top of a sealing base coat./li>
  • Which paint suits your working style? Oil/enamel paints take longer to dry and allow more time to adjust colors. Acrylic paints are fast drying and easy to clean up after.

  • Easy Clean Up

    Acrylic paints are easy to clean up using soap and water. Only mix small amounts of paint at a time, use a flower palette (see basic tools) with a cover, and cover unused paint when you leave your work. Paint stored under a cover will last for up to 24 hours before drying out. The time depends on heat and humidity levels in your work area. Dried bits of paint are easily peeled off the painting palette when dry.

    Best Types

    Acrylic paints come in a wide variety of forms. If you haven't used them before, learn to blend your own colors using artist’s quality acrylic paints and acrylic mediums, rather than using hobby or craft paints. Artists quality paints are much better colors with much less filler than student quality paints.

    Student quality is usually above the standard of craft paints. Craft paints are usually more opaque with more fillers than artist’s paints. Craft paints are not rated for lightfastness or pigment content.

    Many craft paints are specified in particular instructions. If you want your miniature to match, use these.

    Acrylic Mediums Enhance Effects

    Learn to use acrylic mediums, extenders and thinners, to create the effect you want. A wide variety of acrylic mediums are available which extend the handling qualities of the paint. Some thin it, some add texture, some change transparency, some even allow you to use the paint as a fabric paint. Sample jars of mediums are available. Using Pumice medium will allow you to instantly create a stucco texture.

    Best Used on Porous Materials

    Use acrylic paints on materials which breathe and do not trap moisture – paper, wood, terracotta, bisque.

    If you will use acrylic paints on non porous materials: metal, plastic or resin, use proper undercoats and overcoats. These materials do not breathe so anything painted on them needs to dry perfectly and not swell or contract. If possible, use enamel paints on these materials, or use undercoats with acrylic paint to help the acrylic stick properly then seal the acrylic coating with an overcoat to prevent it absorbing moisture.

    Fast Drying Thin Layers

    Acrylic paints are fast drying and can be thinned with water and acrylic medium to apply very fine layers.

    Use thin coats to accent surface detail. Thick coats of paint will fill in the details and lower your opportunities to add highlighting washes.

    Acrylic paints are idea for situations where you want to apply washes to highlight miniature details. Very thin yet opaque coats can be used to create the base, then detail washes can be applied over the base coats without any danger of blending or bleeding.

    Do not over thin acrylic paints with water, the paint will become weak. Use a mix of water and acrylic medium.

    Soft Coatings

    Acrylic paints never completely dry out. They are hydroscopic and will swell slightly with moisture. They are not for use where wear is important. If you need a hard lustrous coating use oil/enamel paints.

    Applying Paint

    Acrylic paints are easy to use with brushes or airbrushes.

  • Airbrushes: Thin the acrylic mixture with medium and water to achieve the correct consistency for using with your airbrush. After use, run a mixture of soap and water through the airbrush to remove all paint traces.
  • Brushes: Choose the right brush for your painting task and the thickness of paint. Ask the art store what type of brush you should use. Always wash your brush with soap and water after painting and use your fingers to pull the brush back into shape and leave to dry standing upright.

  • (materials from www.about.com)


    eBay Plastic Models Store . OPENING!

    Hello my dear friends.

    2 days ago I opened an eBay Plastic Models Store.

    And now I want to invite you to my Plastic Models Store on eBay.

    You can find there many figures of soldiers, buildings, military vehicles, aircrafts.
    I have new arrival of model kits and most of them is in my store.

    Thank you for attention and wish you to have a nice day everyday!
    Bye bye!


    Friday, September 21, 2007

    Thursday, September 20, 2007

    Enamel, Acrylic or Lacquer Paint?!

    Hello again my dear readers!
    Let talk about paints! We always paint our plastic models in different paints, so today we talk about classification of paints!
    So Enamel, Acrylic or Lacquer Paint?


    Lacquer Paint

    very quick dry

    beautiful gloss
    air brushing
    very tough
    harm health
    hand painting

    Enamel Paint

    beautiful metal
    hand painting
    good for washing
    harm health
    very slow dry
    harm plastic

    Acrylic Paint

    beautiful flat
    thin by water
    slow dry
    air brushing
    easy fingerprinting

    And now we will talk about painting one paint type under second paint type! Chck this table for compatibility of different types of paints!

    --------Over Coat
    Under Coat--------

    How to read this table?! "You can not paint Lacquer on Enamel" or "You can paint Acrylic on Lacquer."
    But remember, you can not mix any combination of enamel, acrylic and lacquer paints!!!

    Thanks for attention! Good luck!


    Tuesday, September 18, 2007

    Tools and materials for professional modelling.

    Here are tools and materials for modellers. As you see, most of them came from Japan. I always buy lots of these stuff whenever I go to Japan. Unfortunately, this hobby is very minor in US compared with Japan. Therefore kits are very expensive and the quality of tools are very poor.(US street price is 1.5 times higher than the list price for Japanese kits. In contrast, Japan street price is usually 20-30% off the list price.)

    This is Pro Hobby's sanding tool. It's very handy. There are 4 types of adhesive refill paper, 240, 400, 800 and 1200.
    Tamiya's sand papers. It's not stiff like other brands. 10 grade are available, 180, 240, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500 and 2000.
    From top, Tamiya's model saw, Hasegawa's scraping tools, rivet maker and US scraper (I use this a lot!)
    All are Tamiya's except left hand side ball tweezer. It's US product.
    Tamiya's paint mixer. Tester's dropper and Hasegawa's handy drill
    Polyester. putty, white putty, normal putty and epoxy putty for different purposes.
    Gunze's or Tamiya's glue, primer, paint thinner, airbrush thinner, decal softer and primer for metal parts
    I mainly use Tamiya's enamel, acrylic, Gunze's lacquer and acrylic.
    Tamiya's masking tapes (wide, medium, narrow) and double sided adhesive tapes(strong, medium, light) for fixing parts for airbrush and US general masking tape.
    Using lacquer paint is very harmful. 3M mask is good for protection. Here are Tamiya's 2 types of airbrushes and pastels for weathering AFVs. Pro Hobby's paint mixer dish is handy, because it's easy to peel off dried paint by just twisting dish.

    It's hard to find nice brushes in US hobby shop.
    Must have items for airplane modeling. Hasagawa's scribing template is much thinner than Verlinden's.
    Compound is must have item for removing the center line of canopy. Wax is good to keep dust away.
    Hasegawa's ultra thin saws and drills.
    I use different viscosity super glues for different purposes.
    Squadron's Walk Around, Detail & Scale's D&S and Verlinden's Lock on are very good reference for aircraft-modeling.