Tuesday, November 27, 2007

Order of multiple paint coats

I'm trying to get the smoothest finish possible - not necessarily the glossiest. In other words, I HATE orangepeel! After I apply a color coat, I'm not about the correct sequence of (a) clearcoat, (b) sand (c) colorcoat. IOW, once I cover the model with color, should I use any additional color coats? Or just multiple clearcoats with sanding in between? And if I use more color coats, should I sand EVERY coat? Or just the clears? Or just the colors? Many thanks for the trouble you take to answer our question! Tom


The best (smoothest) finish should be obtained by applying a good color coat first. After that has dried well you can Polish out any irregularities with fine grit sand paper (2000, 3200, something of that order.). If additional coats are needed you can apply them lightly afterwards. I would wait for clear coat until the finish is blemish free. If you are using gloss paint for the color coats make sure that the coats are thoroughly dry between coats. Sometimes that might take a day or two. A trick that a friend uses for his funny car models is to use finger nail polish as it dries very smooth.

I have managed to get fairly smooth finishes by polishing the surface prior to my first coat and building up the paint in light layers. I also sometimes use flat paints and a final gloss coat. That usually results in a smooth finish. There really is not a science to good paint finish, it is more of an art that each person develops on their own.


Thursday, November 15, 2007

How to get great effects custom painting plastic models

How to get great effects custom painting plastic models?

Two cheap way's to get very good results on model cars is to go to the cheap shops ($2 dollar ones) and check out the nail polish ..amazing colours huge range and at $2 dollars its cheap, looks great and holds its colour..also a product by "pentel pens" called "metallic brush" fantastic pen brushes ..self contained pump fed water based metallic paint in about 12 colours take covering with enamel clear top coat @$8.00 at good papershops /stationers and both of these items will last for a vast number of projects and will keep for years

Depending on What you are trying to do, you can use an Air Brush, Painting masks, and painting templates. IF you are a Military Modeler Dry brushing is what works the best for mud Streaks and splashes, Oil runs, Rust spots with runs down, exhaust streaks. The list of things that can be done is almost endless. The Best answer is Practice, lots of practice, and patience. :)


Wednesday, November 7, 2007

How to remove chrome parts from model car

In previous post I wrote How to remove chrome from plated parts and How to remove paint from your models.
Today we will talk about another method of removing chrome parts from car model!
Ever wonder why kit makers seem to chrome some of the strangest parts? Everything from distributors to oil pans make it into the plating bath. If you are building a trailer queen show car, great, but if you prefer to detail your kits with a more practical look, here's how to remove that pesky chrome in no time.

You should do some steps:

  1. Know that not all plating is created equally. Depending on the manufacturer, the stripping process can take a few minutes or a few hours, which is generally no sweat since you will be building that 426 Hemi while waiting for the valve covers to de-chrome
  2. Get an airtight container, such as a prescription bottle.
  3. Get the chemical for stripping the chrome. Easy-Off oven cleaner can work, but it does have a weird smell, so many prefer chlorine bleach, found in the laundry aisle of your local retailer. Get the cheap stuff, it has no added fragrances and seems to work better for this purpose.
  4. Pour enough bleach into the container to cover the parts. Usually about an inch or so will do the trick.
  5. Drop the parts into the bleach and place the lid on securely. Here's where the airtight part comes in. Since most plastic parts float in bleach, shake the container a little to insure tha parts are covered.
  6. Take a look after about an hour. If the chrome is hanging tough, replace the lid and wait another hour. If the parts are still shiny after that, leave them in the bleach overnight.
  7. Once the parts are dechromed, recover them using tweasers. Place them in a container of fresh water to soak. After 30 min. replace the water and allow them to soak another 30 min.
  8. Be sure and dump your container.
Helpful advices:
  • If you can get your hands on a small strainer or wire basket, it will help in the rinsing process. Just be careful when rinsing under the tap. Plugging the sink is a good idea, unless you really want to test your plumbing skills by trying to fish out a 1:25 scale carb from the J trap.
  • Use lukewarm water to rinse. It takes the bleach off faster than cold.
Warning! Be attentive:
  • Bleach is dangerous if handled improperly. Protect your eyes and skin.
  • Rinse all tools and containers after use with bleach and do not use soap of any kind when rinsing. This will cause the bleach to gas off and the results can be harmful.
  • Clearly label your stripping container and never leave it in the reach of children. Using a child resistant container (pill bottle) will help but "child resistant" isn't child proof, so be safe and put the container out of reach of children.
  • Again, protect your eyes, skin and clothing. Work around the sink to help contain possible spills.