Scale plastic model kits

Tuesday, November 18, 2008

Long-awaited U.S. Bantam Jeep are IN SALE in 1/35 scale Miniart 35014

What did you said, you will ask?! Yes!!!
US BANTAM JEEP Miniart 35014 1/35 ARE IN SALE!!!!
We waited for this release for a long long time.
Official date of release this model kit was an June 2008.
Miniart-models.com already in August signed Bantam Jeep as AVAILABLE but manufacturer delayed this model kit.

And now it happens! This kit come to first traders and during a month or more will be available in woldwide stores.
Let check again the model kit specifics:
Bantam Jeep kit consist of 152 parts, this model contains the jeep vehicle along with five figures. This five figures was taken from stan alone model kit 35047 - US Jeep Crew.
This is the first model from any plastic manufacturer of this Bantam Jeep vehicle.

Retail Price: ~19.50 US$

THIS IS built US JEEP CREW 35047 photos:

So here is a photos of built Bantam Jeep:
This is a main mold of Jeep. As we can see form picture, this is high detailed kit.

And here is a box:

Photos was taken from www.plastic-models-store.com

Thursday, November 6, 2008

History of Plastic modeling

The history of plastic modeling arose shortly before the Second World War, albeit in very limited form. Mass-produced plastic kits came in the period after the Second World War era, but you can not look at the history of plastic model without the long history of modeling in general, which dates from at least to ancient Egypt. Some graves contained models of cars and ships. In the history models were used to ideas and designs for recording. Before photography models rank with the art to contemporary events. In the lobby of the El Presidente Hotel in downtown Santo Domingo is a model of Santa Maria. It is 20 Century model used to illustrate the history of islands. In fact, most models from the past seem to be vessels and many are also in hand. Most warships have been built before the model ship was built. Until the mid-20th Model century was a hobby, the vast quantities of time. With the availability of mass-marketed plastic model kits and disposable incomes in the (relatively) prosperous times after the Second World War and Reconstruction in Europe and Japan, a new hobby was born: plastic kit building.

One of the main selling points was a link with history. Another was a hunger for an understanding of how different machines work. Model creates an interest in issues that will in any case from what is the color of the engine in Richard Petty's car, or what color was a F6F-5 Hellcat. Modeling allows each user a separate representation of the USS Constitution, or to keep Darth Vader's Tie fighter.

The first plastic models were manufactured in the 1950s by the British company Frog and Airfix. American manufacturers like Revell, AMT, Monogram and won promotion in the 1960s as French Heller SA in Europe. Since the 1970s, Japanese firms such as Hasegawa and Tamiya have dominated the field and represent the highest state of the art. Brands from Russia, Central Europe, China and Korea have also prominent recently. Many smaller companies also have plastic models.

During the injection-molding is the predominant manufacturing process for plastic models, the high cost of equipment and tools make it unsuitable for lower-income production. For example, models of small and obscure subjects are often produced using alternative methods. Vacuum Forming is popular for aircraft models, although assembly is more difficult than for injection molded parts kits. Resin-casting, popular with smaller manufacturers, especially "aftermarket" companies (but also producers of full kits) yields a greater degree of detail formed in situ, but as the forms used not so long, the price for this Kits is much higher. In recent times, the latest releases from major manufacturers offer unprecedented detail, this is a game for the best resin kits, which are often also high-quality mixed-media (photo-etched brass, turned aluminum) parts.

Tuesday, November 27, 2007

Order of multiple paint coats

Question
I'm trying to get the smoothest finish possible - not necessarily the glossiest. In other words, I HATE orangepeel! After I apply a color coat, I'm not about the correct sequence of (a) clearcoat, (b) sand (c) colorcoat. IOW, once I cover the model with color, should I use any additional color coats? Or just multiple clearcoats with sanding in between? And if I use more color coats, should I sand EVERY coat? Or just the clears? Or just the colors? Many thanks for the trouble you take to answer our question! Tom

Answer

The best (smoothest) finish should be obtained by applying a good color coat first. After that has dried well you can Polish out any irregularities with fine grit sand paper (2000, 3200, something of that order.). If additional coats are needed you can apply them lightly afterwards. I would wait for clear coat until the finish is blemish free. If you are using gloss paint for the color coats make sure that the coats are thoroughly dry between coats. Sometimes that might take a day or two. A trick that a friend uses for his funny car models is to use finger nail polish as it dries very smooth.

I have managed to get fairly smooth finishes by polishing the surface prior to my first coat and building up the paint in light layers. I also sometimes use flat paints and a final gloss coat. That usually results in a smooth finish. There really is not a science to good paint finish, it is more of an art that each person develops on their own.

Thursday, November 15, 2007

How to get great effects custom painting plastic models

How to get great effects custom painting plastic models?

Two cheap way's to get very good results on model cars is to go to the cheap shops ($2 dollar ones) and check out the nail polish ..amazing colours huge range and at $2 dollars its cheap, looks great and holds its colour..also a product by "pentel pens" called "metallic brush" fantastic pen brushes ..self contained pump fed water based metallic paint in about 12 colours take covering with enamel clear top coat @$8.00 at good papershops /stationers and both of these items will last for a vast number of projects and will keep for years

Depending on What you are trying to do, you can use an Air Brush, Painting masks, and painting templates. IF you are a Military Modeler Dry brushing is what works the best for mud Streaks and splashes, Oil runs, Rust spots with runs down, exhaust streaks. The list of things that can be done is almost endless. The Best answer is Practice, lots of practice, and patience. :)

Wednesday, November 7, 2007

How to remove chrome parts from model car

In previous post I wrote How to remove chrome from plated parts and How to remove paint from your models.
Today we will talk about another method of removing chrome parts from car model!
Ever wonder why kit makers seem to chrome some of the strangest parts? Everything from distributors to oil pans make it into the plating bath. If you are building a trailer queen show car, great, but if you prefer to detail your kits with a more practical look, here's how to remove that pesky chrome in no time.

You should do some steps:

Know that not all plating is created equally. Depending on the manufacturer, the stripping process can take a few minutes or a few hours, which is generally no sweat since you will be building that 426 Hemi while waiting for the valve covers to de-chrome
Get an airtight container, such as a prescription bottle.
Get the chemical for stripping the chrome. Easy-Off oven cleaner can work, but it does have a weird smell, so many prefer chlorine bleach, found in the laundry aisle of your local retailer. Get the cheap stuff, it has no added fragrances and seems to work better for this purpose.
Pour enough bleach into the container to cover the parts. Usually about an inch or so will do the trick.
Drop the parts into the bleach and place the lid on securely. Here's where the airtight part comes in. Since most plastic parts float in bleach, shake the container a little to insure tha parts are covered.
Take a look after about an hour. If the chrome is hanging tough, replace the lid and wait another hour. If the parts are still shiny after that, leave them in the bleach overnight.
Once the parts are dechromed, recover them using tweasers. Place them in a container of fresh water to soak. After 30 min. replace the water and allow them to soak another 30 min.
Be sure and dump your container.

Helpful advices:

If you can get your hands on a small strainer or wire basket, it will help in the rinsing process. Just be careful when rinsing under the tap. Plugging the sink is a good idea, unless you really want to test your plumbing skills by trying to fish out a 1:25 scale carb from the J trap.
Use lukewarm water to rinse. It takes the bleach off faster than cold.

Warning! Be attentive:

Bleach is dangerous if handled improperly. Protect your eyes and skin.
Rinse all tools and containers after use with bleach and do not use soap of any kind when rinsing. This will cause the bleach to gas off and the results can be harmful.
Clearly label your stripping container and never leave it in the reach of children. Using a child resistant container (pill bottle) will help but "child resistant" isn't child proof, so be safe and put the container out of reach of children.
Again, protect your eyes, skin and clothing. Work around the sink to help contain possible spills.

Wednesday, October 24, 2007

Soviet tank crew at work 1/35 Miniart 35017 REVIEW

plBefore I have already made a review of new Miniart diorama Street with Ruined house Miniart 36001 and today we will make a review of Miniat Soviet Tank Crew at Work 35017

Advantages: nice, modern set of figures in casual poses "doing something" around any tank or vehicle
This kit is available at Plastic Models Store just check Soviet Tank Crew at work
Conclusion: Highly Recommended
Recommended: for all Soviet armor modellers and dioramists

For too many years, the wealth of facts, figures and attaches importance were produced too narrowly focused only on the Second World War, German subjects, the very frustrating for the rest of the arms and body. When the stray American, Russian or (heaven forbid!) Commonwealth set came out, Modeler would fall on them like a pack of hungry piranhas, no matter how good or bad it was.

By the way. we wait for opening web store of miniatr model. Plastic Models Store will opens in second part of 2008 year.

Happily many of the newer manufacturers have seen this and now the Chinese and Eastern European ones are filling the void, and with good, high quality figures too. Miniart has begun with a pretty good track record on figures, and now Soviet WWII modelers have been able to get some decent figures to compliment the growing number of WWII Soviet armored vehicles offered.

This set provides five Soviet tankers performing maintenance. Three of the figures are posed as it operating a bore brush for the main armament (which was usually carried in sections inside the longest of the stowage bins – "ZIP" in Russian for spares, tools and accessories – on the fenders of nearly all combat vehicles. One bareheaded figure is posing with a rag in hand and the commander is standing in a relaxed position with his hands set to drape over an open hatch.

The one thing that I have noticed about the new Miniart figures is that their facial sculpting yields to no one. The five heads in this set are the equal of many of the after-market resin ones offered and can be shown to have individual expressions and even ethnicity – one tanker hear looks to be a Tadzhik (central Asian) with a shaven head and it shows. The same goes for the other four.

Anyone with a good set of tank blueprints may want to have the man with the rag working on cleaning out the tank's air cleaners, which needed constant maintenance with a good cleaning by the crew every 3-4 hours (until 1951 when UVZ finally created a working design that solved that problem.)

Finishing is provided similar to DML boxing with an assembly diagram and color directions on the back of the box. Interior directions provide a handy sketch of where the parts for each figure are located on the sprue.

Overall, this is a great set and one that any diorama modeler would be able to find good use for with a T-34 or IS tank or other 1943 and later armored vehicle.